Pythons don't live in Abomey

(Originally written on the morning of Sunday, January 24, 2010)

So, there’s no python temple in Abomey. I think I got that confused with Ouidah. Not that I saw the pythons when we went to Ouidah since, as I recall, they were “out of season.” Who knows? I don’t have much to say about my trip to the Royal Palace and Museum in Abomey, actually. Definitely it was neat and intense to think about the history, but unfortunately I didn’t know much of it because I didn’t understand most of what the tour guide had to say and stupidly didn’t read up on the history before I went. I know better now. The artifacts were neat to look at and read about. Most interestingly, there were a bunch of things that people still use today here… a couple hundred years later.

The walled-in complex of buildings seemed pretty big; we did a lot of walking from one cement room or two to another. I read later, in an English guidebook that I have, that two of twelve “palaces” that were constructed remain. I don’t remember seeing anything I’d call a palace. That’s okay, I’m sure it’s all very subjective. The deal with the twelve palaces is that it was considered bad luck for a new king to live in the previous king’s digs, so they’d build new ones… right next to the old ones. And, as per usual, lots of stuff got destroyed in conflicts. But it’s still a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cool beans, right? Also cool? Walking around what I thought were holding areas for water, only to find out that it’s really where the spirits hang out. Just moseying around the old kings’ departed souls, you know.

But seriously, I’d like to go back at some point in an effort to understand what I missed from our story-telling, kinda skeevy tour guide, Isaac. He was a fan of being inordinately close to the ladies on our tour. And really, there is no need to touch people as you talk about the thousands of wives some king had or the skull on display in this case. Not necessary. I kept my distance- don’t you worry. I’m also not too pumped to pay more than double the price of entry. Lemme ‘splain.

Get this: the price for “Others” (literally, that’s what the sign said after it listed its reasonable prices for Beninese adults and students and children) is double, at least, what Beninese pay to get in. And then, above the sign, was a decree signed by the Mayor that added another mille CFA onto the price for tourists! Can you DO that? Well, I guess you can. Of course, if you convert the money into dollars, you’d laugh at how inexpensive it is. I don’t live in dollars here. It’s a brilliant way to make a lot more money because a tourist wouldn’t bat an eyelash at the price, but boy oh boy! Anyway, we tried to drop some names for a discount- a guy one of us knew who works there, a friend whose homologue is the mayor’s brother in Bohicon- and inquired after a Peace Corps discount (it exists in some places), but to no avail.

Meh. C’est la vie! And c’est l’afrique! But really, can you imagine? I know in the States we have standard prices and discounts and things might change seasonally, but is there anywhere that’s like, “Hey, if you’re not American, you’ve got a different, higher price”? I’m sure that’s some sort of illegal. Or maybe not.

But we had a good time, including the Volunteer who moved into my homologue’s house the day before! And my previous explanation is just about right- she was in touch with someone who has worked with Mathieu and sang his praises, they got in touch and the rest is history! So she’s here and we’re hanging out and let me tell you something: it’s neat. It seems that now I’m a bit of a good resource and brought her a sense of comfort in this strange time in her life, which is kind of weird. I have transitioned from totally frightened, “what am I doing here, how am I going to live here?” to “yup, this is Africa and I’m down with livin’ au village and here’s the 4-1-1.” When did that happen?

Anyhoo- she’s a cool girl, around my age. She worked with the Red Cross and it brought her overseas to Asia for a bit; she spent a few months in France, picking up the language and you know, living in France. And she wanted to have some sort of short-term volunteering experience and that brought her here. I was really impressed and thought that was really brave- all of those things, especially just ya know, coming to West Africa on a good recommendation. So, I think it’ll be fun.

Today I’m starting (ssshhh, I should’ve started last month, but you know the holiday rush just meddles with work intentions!) to write my part of the Moringa book. Actually it’s really not a big deal with regard to timing. And then later I have an Amour et Vie (community health team) sensibilization. This morning I put oodles of things up on my walls and it’s just fabulous. Thank you for your contributions to my unique home décor :o)

Okie doke, well take care everyone! Lots of love!